Holy Doberman, Batman!

A picture blog for my Dreizehn, my Doberman Pinscher.

April 2014

April 2014

"Ok I have a puppy Doberman that's about 3 and a half months old. I love her but she's horrible at potty training. It's been really hard with all this snow that were getting In my area to get her to go outside and do her business. If she goes inside I tell her bad and place her on a pee pad to show her the proper place to go inside the house. The house were at right now is all wood floor but were moving to a completely carpeted house in 2 weeks. Any tips to get her trained."

Asked by Anonymous

I don’t know how old this is, sorry! You may have already fixed the situation. First, three months is young to expect a dog to be fully potty trained. Remember, your puppy is a baby! Not only are they young and still learning but they also do not yet have perfect control over their bladder. Just something to keep in mind.

When I potty train any dog, be it puppy or adult, I’ll set a timer. For my doberman the timer would be set to 25-30 minutes at first and it would be set any time he was out of his crate. When the timer went off we’d stop everything and go outside to do his business. We would not play outside until he pee’d/poo’d. Once he did I’d give the phrase that I wanted to associate the behavior with and then I’d party and get really excited for him as praise. Next I’d reset the timer and play with him a little outside before going inside. I wanted him to not only associate a phrase with the action (like “go potty” or “hurry up”) but I wanted him to learn that if he went outside and did his business, he’d get to play outside after.

Also, the timer wasn’t for him, it was for me. It was so that I wouldn’t forget to bring him outside. Forgetting to let your dog relieve themselves outside is what leads to most accidents.  As he got older I could increase the amount of time on the timer.

April 2013

April 2013

"Do you know of any good breeders in East or middle Tennessee?"

Asked by Anonymous

I’m having a hard time remembering any breeders in Tennessee at the moment…. Except for Hoytt. But I would never, in a million years, recommend his breeding program to anybody. I can’t think of a program that I disagree with more.

Anyways, SwiftRun in Kentucky - I’ve heard good things about them.
North Carolina has some great breeders too. I’d suggest looking into Allure, Goldgrove, Clariion, and Kinetic.

Keep in mond that I don’t have personal experiences with any of these breeders. Please, please do your own research when considering breeders. Make sure that they’re fully health testing and titling their dogs - even if you just want a pet!

"Do you know of any reputable breeders in south Texas? I live in Corpus Christi. I've been looking on fourms but no luck."

Asked by Anonymous

Texas has some very good breeders but also some very bad ones.
I think that both Merrimac and Touchstone are in southern Texas.
There is also Rhapsody in the central Texas area.
There’s Sunburg, Sunking, and Horizon as well who I’ve heard good things about (though I cannot give a personal recommendation as I just don’t know). Last is a newer breeder, Aura Dobermans, up north. New to breeding, yes, but they’re doing things right.

I completely understand the allure of wanting a breeder in your home city, I do. However, a healthy puppy from a reputable breeder is wroth traveling for. Trust me.

I’m very sad about not having time to take bluebonnet pictures with the dogs this year so I keep looking over pictures from the previous too years. This is one of my favorites.

I’m very sad about not having time to take bluebonnet pictures with the dogs this year so I keep looking over pictures from the previous too years. This is one of my favorites.

Hello!

I’ve been super busy lately but an influx of new follows has re-alerted me to this blog. I’ll try to start posting more regularly again.

To those that have sent me messages, I am so sorry that I have not responded! I will do my best to respond to each of you in the very near future.

Thanks for the follows!
Pictures will come soon.
:]

I really love this except the weird thing he was doing with his front right leg.

I really love this except the weird thing he was doing with his front right leg.

Answers to a question!

I received a two-part “ask” earlier that included a plethora of questions about getting a doberman. Since I couldn’t get the whole question posted due to it being in two parts I am posting the answers separately.

If you do not like long text posts, I am sorry in advance. However, I think that this is good information for anybody interested in this breed.


"How do I know that what I’m getting is what I want?"
Honestly, a lot of this has to do with trust and getting your dog (be it a doberman, a different breed, or a mutt) from a reputable source. Reputable and ethical breeders and rescues will ask potential owners many questions about their life style, their home, their expectations, etc. This is not because they are nosey but because they want to make sure that A) you are prepared and able to take on the responsibility of this breed and B) that you are taking home the right dog for you. By that last part I mean a dog that is compatible for your situation.

For example, I got my boy through a breeder. He was my first dog. I wanted a partner to exercise and try sports with but I didn’t want an intense (think, lots of drive and energy and/or a strong personality) dog nor would I have meshed well with one. Not only was I not prepared for that but, as a full time graduate student who also works over 20 hours a week, a dog like that would not have been able to fit into my life style. Through the questions that my boy’s breeder asked (expected life style, expected activities, experience, general expectations, etc) she was able to choose the right puppy from the litter for me.

Yes, I played no part in picking my puppy. However, I am okay with that and I believe that if the buyer is going to have a say in which puppy they get, it should be minimal. Think of it this way, the breeder (should) know the lines like the back of their hands. They not only bred the parents but they have lived with and watched the puppies since their birth. There is nobody that knows the puppies better than the breeder and the breeder should be experienced enough to evaluate the puppies for their personalities and potential. If a breeder is letting you look at a litter and pick the puppy for yourself, walk away and never look back.


European vs. American
My boy is from American (show) lines.
There are also European show lines - hard to find reputable breeders of this in the US because there aren’t many shows that judge using the FCI standard.
Last, there are European working lines - this would be dogs bred for the working sports such as Schutzhund. As a first time owner, you do not need a working-bred dog, trust me.

Now, just because I have an Am Doberman doesn’t mean that I have anything against the Euro dobes - I don’t.

Honestly, having met many Am dobes as well as many Euro dobes, I do not think that there is much of a difference. Yes, there is a slight appearance difference but, otherwise, the standard is rather similar (including average weight and hight for this medium-sized breed). A well bred doberman is a well bred doberman and should have this breed’s traits regardless of if it’s Euro or Am. These are my beliefs and not every single person will agree with me.

"What are Champion Blood Lines?"
This depends on who you ask. To many less-than-stellar breeders (BYBs, greeders, puppy mills, etc), “Champion Blood Lines” means that there are a few dogs within the last four generations that have a CH title on their registered name. Being titled with a CH means that the dog has shown in front of many judges and is deemed to be a good representation of breed standard. Dog shows (conformation) are there for judging breeding quality. Being that form and function work hand and hand, being built correctly is incredibly important.

To the reputable breeders, this means that the majority of the dogs within the last 4 or 5 generations have been titled. This is both conformation titles (CH in front of the registered names) as well as, sometimes, working titles (titles that go at the end of the registered name). If you were looking for a working dog, working titles would be very important.

For example, take a look at a pedigree belonging to a direct sister of my boy (so, it’s the same as his) - you can see it here.


Notice how both parents are titled on both ends (front and back), how all four grandparents are titled, how seven of the eight grand parents are titled, 14 of the 16 great grandparents are titled, and three of the 32 great-great grandparents are titled. This is a pedigree that, obviously, has had a lot of thought and work put into it and, if you ask me, this is what you want to see. Yes, some untitled dogs were used but they were few and far between and there is likely a VERY good reason that those untitled dogs were used.

What age to bring a puppy home?
No younger than 8 weeks.

In the first 8 weeks of life the puppies go through some critical periods and learn a whole lot, including bite inhibition, from their mother and especially from their siblings. Removing a puppy early can be detrimental and can make training much harder.

Some breeders like to hold onto the puppies for a little longer and there is nothing wrong with that. Getting a puppy that is slightly older will not have a negative influence on your bond with the puppy. I got my doberman at 13 weeks of age and I got my other dog when she was 6 months old. I have a fantastic bond with both of them.

Reputable breeders in North America will crop/dock all of their puppies (some Euro breeders will give you the option of the dog being cropped or not but, if you opt for cropped, they will handle that for you). This could mean that the dog will stay with them an extra week or two because they will want to keep the puppy until the open wounds on their ears heal. That is something to keep in mind.


How do I know that I’m getting a healthy puppy?
There is no such thing as completely healthy lines in this breed.
If a breeder tells you that their lines are free of DCM (a heart disease that will take about 50% of this breed), walk away and never look back because they are either lying or they are not knowledgeable enough. That’s just something that doesn’t happen.

The reason that I support “reputable” breeding is because on top of titling their dogs, they are also fully health testing them. This includes vWD status, CERF, hips, elbows, and cardio. “Cardio” means the check for DCM. While there is a test for a genetic marker, it’s not known to be all too accurate. What you are looking for is a breeder who tests his/her dogs regularly by use of a Holter/Echo and then getting the results checked by a cardiologist

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"How will I know what shots to keep up on?"
This is one of those things that varies a whole lot depending on who you ask. My best advice is to find and decide on a future vet for your puppy and talk to them about it. On top of that, consider the advice and suggestions of the breeder that you choose AND do your own research! In the end, make sure you are knowledgeable about this information and make the choice that you feel most comfortable with.

There are also a set of “puppy shots.” These are given three different times with the last set of shots being given around 16 weeks of age.

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I hope that this information is helpful to you!!

I’m pretty sure that it goes like this… UKC CH Rhapsody’s Mystery of (the) Spanish Chest CGC CA

My pretty boy

I’m pretty sure that it goes like this… UKC CH Rhapsody’s Mystery of (the) Spanish Chest CGC CA

My pretty boy